Tuesday 6 December 2016

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch, Black With Gold Case

Most mechanical watches - especially automatics - have about two full days of power reserve. Adding an additional day for 72 hours of power reserve is nice, but when you start having watches with five or more days of power reserve, to you really begin to appreciate the appeal. Adding more power reserve to a watch movement isn't as simple as including a larger mainspring barrel. There are issues like torque curves to deal with, and offering long power reserves is always a delicate balance of mixing movement frequency with the type of barrel system used.


Finishing on the HMC 341 is pretty good, and I like details like the gold chatons around the large-sized synthetic ruby jewels. The movement surface as seen through the rear of the case is also where the leap year indicator for the perpetual calendar complication is located. I particularly like this choice of placement since this is a necessary element of a perpetual calendar, but not something that you need to look at on a regular basis. In fact, most other perpetual calendar watches go to some lengths to "hide" the leap year indicator so that it isn't obtrusive to the overall design. Placing this indicator on the back of the watch is just one of the many little things that feels quite sensible about H. Moser & Cie.'s design sense.

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