Sunday 25 December 2016

Mondaine Stop2Go Swiss Railways Watch

The Mondaine Stop2Go Swiss Railways watch is inspired by the design of the Swiss railway clocks, and the design can also be seen as the clock for some Apple products. The Mondaine Stop2Go Swiss Railways features a very unique action: when the seconds hand reaches the 12 o'clock position it pauses, the minute hand leaps forward to the next minute marker, then the seconds hand begins moving again.
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Mondaine licensed the right to use the design of the Swiss railway clocks in its watches, but long before that - in 1944, to be exact - Hans Hilfiker developed a system that would synchronize the clocks at every Swiss railway station at once. The issue of maintaining standardized times at different stations had long been an issue and Hilfiker's design neatly solved it. Every minute, at stations across the country, clocks would synchronize. During the synchronization, the second hand's pause would allow any slight variations or errors to be covered up. An iconic action was born, and it's one the wearer of this watch can appreciate each minute.

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Wednesday 14 December 2016

Tissot PRS 516 Automatic, A Cool Black Design

The Story of a Watch Company published in 2002, as Tissot entered its 150th year. Tissot’s PRS516 range takes design cues from 1960s motorsports. Rather than claiming an association with a specific race or car as others do - with varying credibility - Tissot have reinterpreted the design of their PR516 of 1965, the one with the distinctive, perforated steel bracelet. The ”PR” signifies “Particularly Robust” - a fair description - and the “S” adds “Sport” to today’s versions. Clearly tough watches, then, but also stylishly designed and well-finished.


This carbon version has a black PVD-coated steel case, with brushed surfaces and polished edges. The face and bezel feature fine-weave carbon fibre, which displays a kind of intrinsic guillochage. While the shapes of the case, hands, and other details are distinctly vintage, the predominantly black aesthetic and hi-tech materials speak of more recent times. A pleasing mid-blue accent appears in three places: the seconds hand, the “516” identification, and a thin ring under the bezel. Other colours - including red, often associated with speed - appear elsewhere in the PRS516 range. The fixed carbon-fibre bezel has numerals at five-minute intervals and is narrow, giving the watch a wide face that is clearly legible under a sapphire crystal. Tissot’s official images of this watch, understandably, show the carbon fibre at its most dramatic - but most of the time, in gentler light, the effect is more subtle. In slanting sunlight, though, it lights up with prominent reflections.

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Garrick Portsmouth Watch With A Simple Watch Dial

One of the more visually striking elements found on the dial of the Garrick Portsmouth is the handset. The maritime-themed hands are beveled, thermally blued, and serve as somewhat of a brand signature featured on the Norfolk model as well. The work is carried out completely in-house and the thermal finishing process is even used in the construction of blued screws integrated throughout the movement. Besides a sub-dial for running seconds and the rather prominent inclusion of the brand name, the dial's true centerpiece is the exhibition of the balance wheel and bridge at 6 o'clock.


The 19-jewel UT-G01 movement also provides 45 hours of power reserve and runs within a daily variance of +3 seconds according to Garrick. Each watch comes with either an alligator or premium leather strap with a matching 316L stainless steel buckle. As mentioned previously, the dial engraving is customizable and we should point out that the "England" pattern you see here is simply meant to flaunt Garrick's ability to carry out this kind of dial finishing. The Garrick Portsmouth's UT-G01 hand-wound movement was developed in partnership with eminent watchmaker, Andreas Strehler and his company Uhr Teil AG. While some components like the free sprung balance are crafted in Garrick's Norfolk workshop, others are made by Uhr Teil AG. After construction, the pocket watch-like movements are finished and regulated by Garrick's small team of watchmakers at their home facility.

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Tuesday 6 December 2016

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Watch, Black With Gold Case

Most mechanical watches - especially automatics - have about two full days of power reserve. Adding an additional day for 72 hours of power reserve is nice, but when you start having watches with five or more days of power reserve, to you really begin to appreciate the appeal. Adding more power reserve to a watch movement isn't as simple as including a larger mainspring barrel. There are issues like torque curves to deal with, and offering long power reserves is always a delicate balance of mixing movement frequency with the type of barrel system used.


Finishing on the HMC 341 is pretty good, and I like details like the gold chatons around the large-sized synthetic ruby jewels. The movement surface as seen through the rear of the case is also where the leap year indicator for the perpetual calendar complication is located. I particularly like this choice of placement since this is a necessary element of a perpetual calendar, but not something that you need to look at on a regular basis. In fact, most other perpetual calendar watches go to some lengths to "hide" the leap year indicator so that it isn't obtrusive to the overall design. Placing this indicator on the back of the watch is just one of the many little things that feels quite sensible about H. Moser & Cie.'s design sense.

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Jacob & Co. Billionaire Watch, Crazy With Full Of Diamonds

The Jacob & Co. Billionaire doesn't so much feel like a watch as it does a crown - only one that you wear on your wrist rather than on your head. It might not be something everyone considers pretty or even tasteful, but it sends the right message and is probably not the most comfortable thing to wear. Comfort is really beside the point, no king ever praised the comfort of wearing a heavy piece of gilded metal on their head. If you are the privileged person who wears the Jacob & Co. Billionaire, then I believe you have an obligation to do so in order to warn the people around you about who you are, and that obligation extends to its large-size and girth.


The 18k white gold case is somewhere down there under the diamonds, and the bracelet gracefully slopes down from the case rather than dropped down immediately in a way that might make it fit better. Its more like a massive diamond-covered bangle bracelet. You, theoretically, could remove bracelet links as one would on most other watches with bracelets... but in this case, do you really want to reduce that 260 carat count? I think you owe it to the careful creators and gemologists who toiled on this timepiece to maintain its full dimensions whilst wearing it. So I am not going to suggest removing any links for sizing purposes.

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Friday 25 November 2016

The Fortis 2pi Watch With The Unique Mathematics Dial

Fortis was not a brand that I would have put into that category. As it is largely a dial-based sort of effort, though, it would not be a surprise to see, well, any brand create something like this. That said, with the help of Rolf Sachs, we now have the Fortis 2pi available for us. Apparently, the Fortis 2pi is part of the Terrestis collection which was recently introduced, but of course, this model is something of a different nature. Looking at the dial, you see what looks almost like a whiteboard with various geometry-related things scribbled down, with two pi symbols showing up as part of calculations that one would expect to result in approximations for the angles at the 2 o'clock and 5 o'clock positions.

The crispness of those digits is a stark contrast to the hand-drawn nature of the dial. While I realize printing up one-off date wheels for a 150-piece limited edition would be no small undertaking, I think had they done that, it really would have helped out the look. And this would also give them a chance to use a white background - like the dial - to continue the whiteboard theme. It feels funny to call out a date wheel in this manner, but for something that is more aesthetically driven (as an art watch should be), those sorts of details need attention. Tucked into the 42mm steel case of the Fortis 2pi you have the F-2014 movement which is based on the ETA 2836-2, so you will have all of the reliability and durability you would normally expect from a Fortis watch; albeit in a package that looks something more like what you would find coming from the bargain bin. And that, for me, is where the watch does not sit right. When you look at what the brand produces, the Fortis 2pi just feels out of place.

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Best Replica Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Watch 329.30.44.51.01.003 For Sale

 The Speedmaster Super Racing watch in stainless steel is the first timepiece to be equipped with Omega's Spirate ultra-fine travel time...