Panerai Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio Brevettato PAM685 & PAM687 Watch

Panerai has been there since the beginning of man’s mid-century race to the bottom of the sea, and has a number of extremely rare vintage editions provided to the Royal Italian Navy to prove it. One such example was the original Radiomir, whose unique, 12-sided bezel was proudly engraved with the proclamation of its patented ("Brevettato") design – you know, just in case navy divers wanted to copy it, or something. Since Panerai surfaced as a commercially available brand, it has been dipping into its archives to recreate this super cool blend of military-grade ruggedness and sleek Italian design.  


While the PAM687 takes the faux-patina adoption to new heights with a brown “tropical” dial designed to mimic the discoloration that occurs over time on lacquered dials (enamel, by contrast, will never fade, but these having been military spec watches, there of course was no demand for fancy enameled dials). It’s the first time Panerai has ever introduced an offering quite like this, so love it or hate it, the significance is still certainly notable. The rest of the watch mirrors other aspects of the original Radiomir, including the swarthy 47mm case diameter, Plexiglass crystal, wire lugs, time-only indication without even running seconds, and of course, an oversized onion crown – a necessity carried over from military watches of the era that had to be wound while wearing gloves.

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Bulgari Octo Solotempo 38mm Watch In Blue

Bulgari included their "designer touch" to the Octo by giving them much more minimal dials (which Bulgari creates in-house). Even though there are still some exotic Octo watches (such as the Octo Jumping Hour Retrograde, which they now refer to as the "Octo Retrogradi"), the majority that Bulgari produces have either a time-only .
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The point of this article is to feature the Bulgari Octo Solotempo 38mm watch which is the smallest Octo case currently produced. Bulgari currently produces the Octo in cases which are sized 38mm, 40mm, 41mm, and 43mm wide. Note that the Octo case tends to wear large given its overall square-shaped profile. A lot of the design is actually a sort of optical illusion which distracts from the mostly square shape. You have the dominant round bezel, octagonal dial, and bevy of other shapes, angles, curves, and levels. Thus at 38mm wide, this Bulgari Octo Solotempo watch isn't what I would call small, but rather a bit more minimal in its wearing experience than the larger sizes.

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Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Americas Edition Watch With Complicated Dial

With extremely skeletonized watches, like we have here with the Roger Dubuis Exalibur Spider Americas Edition, I am frankly amazed at the work done on the dial and case. By that, I mean how tidy-looking things are kept, all while keeping the "interesting" bits exposed, and tucking everything else away in layers under the structure that still remains. The tiny machines are amazing, and then when you constrain yourself with these sorts of limits, that does certainly elevate things a good bit.
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This version of the Roger Dubuis Exalibur Spider features red and yellow accents - I would have figured something more to the red, white, and blue scheme could have been executed. Expected? Sure, but it could be done well (in fact, swapping yellow for blue on this watch would do it), and seems like a miss on this particular version. Then again, there must be a reason for it, and I'm sure those who are more well-versed in the world of Roger Dubuis will let me know in the comments below. nd who knows, maybe in person, those white-filled tips on the hands (one presumes lumed as well) are easier to pick out in the 45mm case than the pictures suggest. I just know that the rest of the hand being dark as it is will make it tricky.

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